Melasma Vs Hyperpigmentation – What’s the difference and how can you treatthem?

Uneven skin tone and discolouration is one of the most common issues we see in clinic, and it usually comes down to Hyperpigmentation or Melasma. But what is the difference, what can I do to help, and what can you do at home to maximise and maintain your results?

What causes Hyperpigmentation and Melasma?

Hyperpigmentation refers to darkened patches or spots on the skin caused by an overproduction of melanin, stemming from our melanocytes, Melanocytes are specialised skin cells responsible for producing melanin, the pigment that gives our skin it’s colour. They sit deep in the basal layers of the skin and distribute melanin to surrounding skin cells. When the skin is exposed to triggers such as UV radiation, heat, inflammation or hormonal changes, these cells become overstimulated and begin to produce excess melanin. The overproduction leads to dark spots or patches on the skin.

In melasma especially, melanocyte activity is often heightened by hormonal changes such as pregnancy (and is often referred to as “the mask of pregnancy”) making it a more chronic and reactive condition that needs long term management. So let’s look in more detail, and discuss what treatments and home care you can use to keep on top of it.

Hyperpigmentation:

Can affect all skin types and be triggered by:

- Sun Exposure

- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne, injury or skin

treatments

- Hormonal changes (though it is more specific to melasma)

Measma

A specific type of hyperpigmentation that presents as larger, symmetrical patches, commonly on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It is more commonly seen

in women and can be triggered by:

- Hormonal changes (pregnancy, hormonal birth control and hormone therapy like HRT)

- Sun exposure

- Heat and light exposure

In Clinic Treatment options:

Treatments should always be approached with caution and targeted to the individual after a full consultation. Going too aggressively with treatments can result in post

inflammatory hyperpigmentation, making the problem worse. Clinic treatments are similar for both conditions and include:

Chemical Peels:

Superficial peels with ingredients like glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid can exfoliate pigmented cells, and stimulate renewal, They are specifically effective for

PIH, but caution must be used in melasma, to avod triggering inflammation

- PCA Pigment Correct Peel

- SkinCeuticals Pigment Peel

- SkInCeuticals Glycolic acid peel

- PCA Perfecting Peel

Microneedling:

Creates microinjuries that stimulate collagen and enhance product absorption. When combined with specific serums and additions like purasomes, it can be incredibly

effective for both hyperpigmentation and some cases of melasma but again, caution must be used to avoid triggering inflammation and overstimulation.

DermaLux LED Light Therapy

Red and Near infra red light can help calm inflammation and support skin healing. Blue light can help if acne induced PIH is a concern. LED won’t rid your pigmentation on it’s own but it’s a great adjunct to other treatments to support skin healing and reduce recurrence in melasma.

What can you do at home?

Targeting your skin routine can have a huge impact on your hyperpigmentation and melasma. Here are some great ingredients (and product suggestions) for brighter, more even skin tone:

Hyperpigmentation:

- Vitamin C – Brightens and inhibits melanin production

- Niacinamide – Even skin tone and reduce inflammation

- Alpha Arbutin – A gentle yet effective lightener

- Retinoids – Increase cell turnover and fade pigmentation

- AHA/BHA Exfoliants - Help to exfoliate superficial mature, pigmented cells

Melasma:

- Tranexamic Acid – Reduces pigment production and inflammation

- Azelaic Acid – Safe for sensitive skin and melasma prone individuals

- Kojic Acid – a natural lightener with antioxidant properties

- Hydroquinone – (short term use, under supervision) A gold standard in

pigmentation treatment but not suitable for long term use

Product Recommendations (with affiliate links)

• Vitamin C – SkinCeuticals Phloretin Serum – available in clinic. Brightens and inhibits melanin production. Use in your AM routine, after cleansing.

• SkinCeuticals Discolouration Defence – Available in clinic or here (https://go.shopmy.us/p-21143101)

  A combination of Niacinamide, Tranexamic acid, Kojic Acid to effectively target hyperpigmentation

• PCA Pigment Gel Pro – Available in clinic or here (https://pcaskin.co.uk/products/pigment-gel-pro?sca_ref=5275898.w1YTA0XDpU)

  Tranexamic acid, hexylresorcinol, 4 butylresorcinol, licorice root extract and additional components like niacinamide and lactic acid leave glowing and more even skin tone

• PCA Skin HydraBright – Available in clinic or here https://pcaskin.co.uk/products/hydrabright?sca_ref=5275898.w1YTA0XDpU

  A light, hydrating moisturiser with niacinamide, gallic acid and licorice root extract

• Klira Pro – Available in clinic only after consultation – a subscription, prescription skincare for effective results, delivered to your door

• La Roche Posay Mela B3 - https://go.shopmy.us/p-21143077

  A patented molecule called melasyl targets dark spots while preserving the natural skin tone. Also contans niacinamide

• HelioCare Pigment Solution Fluid SPF 50 – available in clinic

• Eucerin Sun Pigment control SPF 50

• SkinCeuticals Advanced Brightening SPF50 Available in clinic

Maintaining your results:

Hyperpigmentation requires ongoing management and maintenance.

- Avoid sun exposure where possible – especially sunbeds!

- Wear an SPF50 every day, even in winter. Reapply regularly .

- Consistency is key – a regular skin routine at home is essential to maintain results

- Avoid triggers like heat and excessive exfoliation

- Book regular maintenance treatments

Book a consultation for further advice and information on how to tackle your hyperpigmentation or melasma